Scottish Gemmological Association
SPEAKERS AND WORKSHOP LEADERS
Ken Scarrett - Keynote Speaker
Prior to joining GIA as Director of Research in 2005, Ken served as the Laboratory Director at the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) Gemological Testing Centre in New York; Director of the Asian Institute of Gemological Sciences (AIGS) in Bangkok; and Chief Executive and Director of Laboratory Services at the Gemological Association and Gem Testing Laboratory of Great Britain (GAGTL) in London. He was appointed Managing Director of GIA Southeast Asia in 2008. He retired in 2015 but in 2016 became a consultant to Mumtalakat (the Sovereign Wealth Fund for Bahrain) focusing on expanding the capabilities of the Gem & Pearl Testing Laboratory of Bahrain which he had helped set up 25 years previously.
Over his career he assisted in the setting up of pearl and gem laboratories in Bahrain, Qatar and Dubai and consulted for the Bombay Pearl Association to improve their testing facilities. He has been involved in many projects, not the least of which was the examination of the British Crown Jewels; here he detailed every stone in such notable items as the Imperial State Crown, St. Edwards Crown, the Queen Mothers Crown, and the Sceptres. He detailed and graded both the Cullinan I and II diamonds and the Koh-I-Noor, three diamonds that represent the largest and most historically significant.
A writer on gemological and trade issues, Ken’s articles have appeared in numerous industry publications including The Journal of Gemmology (UK) and Gems and Gemology (USA). He also co-authored the books The Crown Jewels and The Pearl and the Dragon.
Ken has lectured to gemmologists and traders in many countries including Australia, Bahrain, Brazil, Canada, China, Colombia, France, Hong Kong, India, Israel, Italy, Japan, Korea, Singapore, Thailand, Sri Lanka, UAE, UK and the USA.
In addition to his passion for diamonds, rubies and sapphires, Ken also has a strong interest in pearls and has visited and studied in most of the world’s major pearl producing countries.
Ken is currently
President CIBJO Pearl Commission
Member CIBJO Coral Commission Steering Committee.
Member CIBJO Gemstone Commission Steering Committee.
David Callaghan joined the West End firm of jewellers, Hancocks, as an apprentice in 1955 and continued his career there until his retirement in 1997. Appointed to the Board of Directors in 1964 he eventually became the senior Director.
Hancocks, uniquely, are the sole suppliers of the Victoria Cross since the inception of the award in 1856 and David has made a particular study of this unique award for over 40 years.
David became a Freeman of the City of London in 1964; was made a Freeman of the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths in 1975 and was “clothed with the Livery” of the Company in 1983.
He is the current President of the Society of Jewellery Historians.
John Harris entered the Jewellery trade in Glasgow in 1948 and after completing his apprenticeship as a Heraldic Silver Engraver went on to study gemmology and obtain his FGA in 1956. The following year he became self employed and moved to Carlisle where the family business still operates managed by his son.
During his many years as a Gem-A tutor John lectured and ran workshops in which he specialised in the practical use of the spectroscope. Early attempts at photographing gemstone spectra through the spectroscope began about 1980 using 35mm.emulsion film and advanced with digital imaging around the year 2000 at which time his Spectra Database was launched on the internet.
Research in this field led to him being awarded “The R. Keith Mitchell Award” by the Gem-A in 2009 during which year he also became an Honorary Life Member
John is also responsible for the excellent website on Spectroscopy,
Stuart Robertson, GG is the Vice President of Gemworld International, Inc., Illinois, USA.
Gemworld International, Inc. is a research and consulting firm that monitors relevant developments regarding the worldwide diamond and colored gemstone trade. Stuart is also the Research Director of the GemGuide; the company’s main publication. His primary responsibilities include supervising the collection and interpretation of pricing data and related research conducted by the company’s research staff. Stuart also conducts general research and authors reports and articles regarding market trends observed in areas including: exploration and mining from established geological locations, as well as issues related to treatment disclosure, identification and detection of treatments and their effect on pricing and value. He has presented lectures on various aspects of gemology in both public and gem industry forums and has more than 20 years experience in the jewelry industry.
Stuart is an Accredited Senior Gemologist, Accredited Gemologists Association (AGA), a member of the National Association of Jewelry Appraisers (NAJA), and The Scottish Gemmological Association (SGA). A frequent lecturer on various aspects of gemology in both public and gem industry forums, he serves as the President of the Accredited Gemologists Association, is Conference Co-Chair, World of Gems Conference and was awarded the prestigious Antonio C. Bonanno Excellence in Gemology Award, 2011. He is also the recipient of the AIJV Valuer of the Year Award for 2014.
David Fisher is Principal Scientist at the De Beers Technologies Research Centre in the UK.
David started work at the De Beers Technologies Research Centre in 1992 after obtaining his PhD in Physics from the University of Liverpool. Whilst with De Beers, he has contributed to a range of projects mostly concentrating on the area of consumer confidence technical research. He leads the programme of research on diamond treatments and has been heavily involved in research programmes on HPHT and CVD synthetics.
He has published widely on the physics of diamond and also on the gemmological applications of this work. David regularly presents the results of the research group’s work at international conferences.
Alan Hodgkinson began his career in the jewellery industry in 1957 and went on to earn his FGA with distinction in 1961, then becoming the first Group Training Officer for the Jewellery Trade in 1969. In 1973, he set up own business as a manufacturing jeweller which enabled him to acquire gemstones for teaching gemmology.
Since those early days, Alan's abilities and reputation have gone from strength to strength. Some of the milestones in his career are:
Freeman of the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths 1977
Honorary Member the Canadian Gemmological Association
Honorary Life Member the AGA, SGA, Gem-A, AGTA
Honorary Valuer of the Institute of Registered Valuers.
In 2000, he was also first to win the Tony Bonanno International Award for Contributions to Gemmological Education.
Additionally, at the AGA conference in Tucson this year, Alan received the Hanneman Award for his written contributions deemed to have substantially moved gemmology forward.
Amongst many subjects, Alan has written and published on Visual Optics and more recently, in 2015, his long awaited book entitled Gem Testing Techniques came out.
Currently he is a Gem-A Trustee and Honorary President of the SGA.
Vincent Pardieu GG, AG
Vincent is a Consultant Field Gemmologist who, from 2008 - 2017, was Senior Manager, Field Gemology at the Gemological Institute of America, where he built and managed the first field gemology department in any modern gem laboratory. Previously he was a staff and research gemmologist at the Gübelin Gem Laboratory in Lucerne, Switzerland where he built a reliable system to document research samples as well as planning and leading four field expeditions to pearl and gemstone deposits in Tanzania, Madagascar and Burma.
From 2004 - 2007 he was Laboratory Director at the Asian Institute of Gemological Sciences in Bangkok Thailand where he published several research papers on new treatments and lead two 3 month long field expeditions to Vietnam, Sri Lanka, Madagascar, Kenya, Tanzania, Pakistan, Afghanistan, Tajikistan.
With a career thus far that has seen him lead more than 110 field trips, he is Internationally renowned for his dedication to all things related to gemmology and he has published prolifically on all aspects of the subject in a host of different hardcopy, as well as web based publications, the main ones of which can be found on “ResearchGate” at https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Vincent_Pardieu/publications?pubType=article.
He has produced 25 short field gemology documentaries for GIA websites and YouTube:
and his two personal websites ( www.fieldgemology.org and www.conservationgemology.org) are amongst the most visited in the gemmological world.
Henrietta Lidchi is Keeper of the Department of World Cultures, National Museums Scotland.
Prior to coming to Scotland, Henrietta worked at the British Museum. She has curated a number of temporary exhibitions and permanent galleries and led the redevelopment of the six World Cultures galleries in the National Museum of Scotland.
Publications include Imaging the Arctic (British Museum/University of Washington Press1998) and Visual Currencies (National Museums Scotland Press 2009) and most recently Surviving Desires: making and selling jewellery in the American Southwest (British Museum/University of Oklahoma Press 2015).
Dr. Ciğdem Lüle
Dr. Ciğdem Lüle, PhD, FGA, GG (GIA), DGA, is a research gemologist and mineralogist. She has dedicated a large part of her professional career to the identification of gem findings from archaeological sites. The focus of her subject is to establish the geologic and geographic origin of ancient specimens by use of nondestructive gemological and mineralogical testing techniques.
Dr. Lüle earned her PhD. in Mineralogy at Hacettepe University in Turkey. Her interest in mineralogy evolved to focus on gem and ornamental minerals. In 1997, she was awarded the British Council of Turkey Scholarship to study gemmology at the prestigious Gemmological Association of Great Britain in London. In 2000, she was granted the Chevening Scholarship for PhD. research at the Ashmolean Museum of Oxford and the Natural History Museum of London, UK by the British Council of Turkey.
Dr. Lüle relocated to Great Britain in 2001 where she established residence for the next 10 years. In 2005, she earned a graduate Gemologist Diploma from the Gemological Institute of America. She was employed as an instructor at the London Campus of the GIA from 2004 until 2010.
In 2010, Dr. Lüle relocated to the USA and there joined the staff of Gemworld International Inc., in March 2011 as Special Projects Manager. She has developed a series of practical educational workshops pertaining to specific pricing and identification challenges facing the global trade today. These workshops have been taught by her not only in the US but also in Canada, UK and Australia. The pricing workshops are administered through Gemworld International, Inc.
Dr. Lüle is also the technical advisor of the new World of Color, color communication system and a contributing editor of the GemGuide’s Gem Market News.
Dr. Lule was recently awarded the 2016 Antonio C. Bonanno Award for Excellence in Gemology.
Tom Herbst is an amateur faceter and all-round rock enthusiast. Born in eastern Ontario, Canada, he received his formal education in Montreal, Quebec Waterloo, Ontario, and Ithaca, New York. A research astrophysicist in his “day” job, Tom specializes in the design, construction, and scientific exploitation of novel astronomical instrumentation.
Although he began collecting pretty rocks as a kid, it was not until his mid-thirties that Tom realized that creating gemstones is within everyone’s grasp. A few faceting lessons and a homebuilt machine later, he was deep into the hobby and has never looked back.
Tom has written two very highly regarded textbooks:
Amateur Gemstone Faceting Volume 1: The Essentials, and
Amateur Gemstone Faceting Volume 2: Expanding Your Horizons.
Tom currently lives and works near Heidelberg Germany.
Kath Duncan has been working in the jewellery industry for nearly 30 years. She started with a local jewellery manufacturer in Orkney, then worked in London's Hatton Garden and a jewellery workshop in Glasgow. But Kath always knew that she wanted to start her own business, which she has been doing together with working as a lecturer at Glasgow Kelvin College for the last 15 years.
The jewellery trade has changed greatly over the last 3 decades and Kath considers herself to have been lucky to have had the opportunity to evolve with the progress, including CAD, 3D printing, laser printing and microscopic stone setting.
Her own work consists of one off commissions designed for the client. The restrictions of each piece varies with the demands of the client and the use of modern technology allows her to push her boundaries. The use of gems within her work vary greatly, from any variety of quartz, tanzanite, baby teeth to opals and diamonds. This keeps the work interesting and keeps her on her toes!
Kath says “It is a privilege that I get so much pleasure from working with precious materials and I love my job as a jeweller. As the saying goes, `Every day`s a school day` - I am still learning and I still enjoy the experience.”
ANTOINETTE MATLINS, PG, FGA
Antoinette Matlins, PG, FGA, is an internationally respected gem and jewelry expert, author and lecturer who has developed an unsurpassed reputation in the area of consumer education and as a consumer advocate in the field. She gained wide recognition in the late 1990s when she spearheaded the Accredited Gemologists Association’s nationwide campaign against gemstone "investment telemarketing scams," and has continued for over 3 decades to expose fraud. In addition, her expertise is sought worldwide by clients who retain her to seek fine, rare, or unusual gems and jewels for acquisition.
Antoinette has often been seen on national and international television programs offering important consumer information—or exposing fraud—and she devotes much of her work to education and consulting within the trade. Her work withing the tradefocuses on teaching retailers, gemologists—and virtually anyone who love gems—to identify gemstone materials using simple, inexpensive, portable tools. Honored by the international Accredited Gemologist Association with their highest award for Excellence in Gemology, she was also made a “Fellow of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain” (FGA) for her contributions in the gemological field.
A highly respected author, she has written seven books that are widely used throughout the world both by consumers and by professionals in the gem and jewelry field. Her books include Jewelry & Gems: The Buying Guide (almost 600,000 copies now in print, in nine languages; The Pearl Book: The Definitive Buying Guide; Gem Identification Made Easy; Colored Gemstones: The Antoinette Matlins Buying Guide; and Diamonds: The Antoinette Matlins Buying Guide. Formerly the Gemology Editor for National Jeweler magazine (for almost a decade), her articles and comments have also appeared in many national and international consumer and trade publications.
Andrew Fellows FGA DGA has had a varied career within the world of gemmology. Starting as a production planner in 1992, within the UK's largest jewellery manufacturer, Gallery Jewellers, based in Birmingham's Jewellery Quarter, he quickly developed an interest in gemstones that saw him start on a succession of gemmological courses. Over a decade later, Andrew moved from a manufacturing environment to the retail sector, taking a role as in-house gemmologist and diamond grader for J.E.Marlow & Sons. During this time, Andrew started teaching as a correspondence tutor for the Gem-A, first on a part-time basis, then in 2011, taking on a full-time role as the IT Implementation Manager in Gem-A's London headquarters. Overseeing and developing the online aspect of the Foundation, Diploma and Gem Diamond courses, Andrew was also an evening tutor, covering the Diamond and Foundation years. Whilst there, he also travelled extensively to trade shows, promoting Gem-A courses, and Gem Instruments, and providing talks, seminars and workshops.
In 2016 Andrew left Gem-A to accept a lecturing position at Birmingham City university, on the BSc in Gemmology and Jewellery Studies course, where he is now expanding the knowledge of the next generation of gemmologists.
Outside of work, Andrew has also authored a series of articles on gemstones, in the "Jeweller" magazine, and has written numerous articles and reviews for "Gems and Jewellery", a publication on which he also served as a member of the Advisory Board. Working with the Smithsonian, he also acted as consultant for the recent Dorling-Kindersley "Gem" and "Jewel" books, published in October 2016.
Andrew is also a committee member for the Gem-A Midlands Branch, for which he has provided seminars and workshops, and is included in the JTV panel of experts for gems and diamonds, as well as being a member of SGA, FGAHK.